Phyllis Galembo, Agot Masquerade, Etikpe Village, 2004
Cibachrome, 30″ x 30″
Edition: 6
Costume of a Zulu married woman from the Maphumulo area, c. 1950. The vertical stripes and colors of this beadwork contrast of the man from the Eshowe region, while the distinctive technique shares similarities. Maphumulo beadwork was typified by bars of black, navy, turquoise and green, as seen in her costume, sometimes accented with red, yellow, orange, or pink.
Costume of a Zulu married woman from the Nqutu region, 1960s. The Nqutu beadwork convention mirrors the palette of older beadwork from the neighboring Msinga region with the exclusion of Vaseline-colored beads. Nqutu costumes are also much more textural and favor large beads and chrome buttons.
Bridal costume of an Ndwedwe woman, c.1965. This costume was owned by Ntombiyise Mandwandwe Shiza of the Mbava clan of the New Hanover region. The use of large plastic beads and inclusion of black as a strong element of the palette are typical of this Zulu region, close to the city of Pietermaritzberg, where the beads were easily obtained.
Costume of a young Thembu woman, c. 1960. The extensive use of cerise wool, the short skirt, and the uncovered shoulders, among other things, indicate that the girl is a teenager. Her rubber necklaces, made from mining gear, suggest that she is courting a young man who has been working on the mines-a toughening experience undergone by most males in their late teens, before circumcision and entry into manhood. The tiny glass bottle worn at the throat contains a love charm. The strands of beads suspended from her earrings and headband would have draped across her face.
Costume of a senior Zulu man from the Eshowe region, c. 1960. This ceremonial outfit belonged to Mthandeni Biyela of the Ntumeni clan. His wife, Mantuli, made it for him over several years, and sold it after his death. In Zulu costume, certain items may be worn by a man or a woman, though each would wear the same item in a different way. For example, an unmarried woman’s front apron might be worn on the hip by a married man, as in this case. The beadwork tobacco tin and snuff spoon, dated 1962, belonged to another man.
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